How to Hire a Roofer: The Complete U.S. Guide
Hiring a roofer is one of the most expensive decisions a homeowner makes — and one of the most frequently regretted. This is the playbook for hiring right, without getting scammed.
The 8-step process
- Define the scope — repair vs. replacement, materials, expected lifespan
- Get 3+ written estimates — verbal quotes are worthless
- Verify licensing — check your state contractor board
- Verify insurance — ask for a certificate of liability and workers comp
- Check reviews — Google, BBB, Yelp, and Nextdoor for locals
- Compare written bids line by line — not just the bottom line
- Negotiate the payment schedule — never 100% upfront
- Get a written contract before any work starts
What to verify before signing
- License number — verify on your state contractor board website
- Insurance certificate — ask the insurer directly; fake certificates exist
- Local address — Google Maps street view it
- Physical reviews — not just on their own website
- Manufacturer certification — GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed maintain certified contractor directories
What a written bid should include
- Square footage and pitch of the roof
- Materials with brand, model, and color
- Underlayment and ice/water shield specifications
- Ventilation plan (ridge, soffit, static)
- Flashing replacement or reuse
- Tear-off and disposal
- Permits (who pulls them — should be the contractor)
- Timeline and weather contingencies
- Payment schedule
- Warranty terms (labor and material separately)
Payment schedule that protects you
Standard structure for a legitimate contractor:
- 10–30% deposit at signing (for materials)
- Progress payment when materials are delivered or at defined milestones
- Final payment only after your written approval of completed work
Never pay 100% upfront. Never pay in cash without a receipt. Never release final payment until you have inspected the work.
Warranty: what to expect
| Type | Typical coverage | Who backs it |
|---|---|---|
| Material warranty | 25–50 years (pro-rated) | Manufacturer |
| Labor warranty | 1–10 years | Contractor |
| Workmanship warranty | 5–25 years (best contractors) | Contractor |
Get the labor and workmanship warranty in writing. Manufacturer warranties mean nothing if the installer did a bad job.
Red flags
- Door-to-door solicitation after storms
- Pressure to sign today
- No local address or license number
- Requests for full payment upfront
- Offers to "waive your deductible" (illegal in most states)
- No written contract, or contract without scope details
- Asking you to sign a "contingency contract" without explanation
- Refusing to let you talk to their insurance company
What to ask each contractor
- How long have you been in business in this area?
- What is your license number, and where can I verify it?
- What is your insurance carrier, and can you provide a certificate?
- Do you subcontract, or is it your own crew?
- What is included in the bid — and what is not?
- Who pulls the permit?
- What happens if it rains during installation?
- What is the labor warranty, in writing?
- Can I see 3 recent jobs in this area?
Related guides
Storm-chaser scams · Inspection costs · Financing · Replacement vs. repair
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a licensed roofer?
Yes, in almost every U.S. state. Unlicensed contractors may void your insurance and manufacturer warranty, and you have limited legal recourse if something goes wrong.
Are the cheapest bids always bad?
Not always, but suspiciously low bids usually mean inferior materials, uninsured workers, or hidden add-ons. Compare line items, not just totals.
What if the contractor asks for a deposit larger than 30%?
Push back. 10–30% is standard. Large deposits are a red flag, especially after a storm.
How many estimates should I get?
At least three. Two is the absolute minimum. Bids vary by 30–40% for the same scope — comparing them is the best way to catch inflated pricing.
Related guides
Storm-chaser scams · Inspection costs · Repair costs · Roofing materials